Seven hundred and sixty two curves separate Pai from Chiang Mai, and the number is printed on T shirts sold in every shop of this small valley town in Mae Hong Son province. Those who survive the road find rice fields, rivers, hot springs and a relaxed atmosphere that has drawn backpackers and Thai weekenders for decades.
Yoma Hotel sits on the edge of town at 59 Moo 6, Viengtai, facing the green slopes of Mount Mae Yen, where the giant White Buddha watches over the valley. Its thirty three rooms have balconies, air conditioning, rain showers and satellite television, and guests praise the views from all of them. An outdoor pool with jet stream, the Dum Ya garden restaurant, a small library, free bicycles and a complimentary car service to town and the airport complete the offer. The Walking Street is about five minutes by car.